Hotels and Restaurants

Hotels and Restaurants

Sooner or later it was bound to occur to a major food writer that there was a need for a comprehensive history of dining out in America, and we can be glad that someone as articulate as the food and travel correspondent for Esquire was the one so inspired. The author of a number of books on food and drink, Mariani has written an immensely interesting, illustrated survey of restaurants from colonial times to the present time, when fast-food eateries have catapulted the industry to the rank of third largest in the country.

As Mariani tells us, "From the beginning there was always a gimmick. Whether it was the novelty of serving a hot lunch in the middle of the day, as John and Peter Delmonico did in New York back in 1827, or the idea of delivering a Domino's pizza to one's door in less than 30 minutes, the story of America's restaurants and eateries begins with a snap of the fingers."

It will probably come as a surprise to no one in the field to learn that the high mortality rate among new restaurants was a given even for the first eating houses, "which went in and out of business at an amazing rate of failure." The food was mediocre at best. Enormous numbers of people were served at a pace that would have been more appropriate in a barnyard.

There were exceptions, of course, such as Fraunces Tavern, which is still in existence. The restaurant where Gen. George Washington bade fare-well to his troops in 1783 offered off-premises catering and had seating for 70. The food included fried oyster, lobster and "beef alamonde." But for the most part the experience of public dining was not for the faint of heart. Mariani quotes a woman's 1704 account of a meal served at a Rhode Island coach stop:

"Here, having called for something to eat, the woman bro't in a twisted thing like a cable, but something whiter; and laying it on the bord, tugg'ed for life to bring it into a capacity to spread; which having with great pains accomplished, shee serv'd in a dish of pork and cabbage, I suppose the remains of dinner. The sauce was of a deep purple, which I tho't was boil'd in her dye kettle; the bread was Indian, and every thing on the table service agreeable to these."

The theme of gluttony, the author tells us, reached its apex in the so-called Gilded Age, following the Civil War, and "the restaurants of the Gilded Age, rococo palaces that catered to this new leisure class in extravagant dining rooms where conspicuous consumption was not only accepted but encouraged and marveled at."

Mariani is a chronicler of the first rank, and his history of restaurants is in no way a dry account of events and dates. On the contrary, it is a rich narrative, vibrant and dramatic, embellished with little details that only the most painstaking research could have uncovered.

Thus, in his chapter "Stretching the Sauce," Mariani explains that the Southern Italian immigrants brought a heritage of food with them to the New World; they gave American English new words, not the least colorful of which derived from the Neapolitan working-class dialect, which omitted the final vowel of words, sometimes transposing it to the first syllable, as in "ahpeetz" for "pizza."

Especially noteworthy are portraits of the times and the people who dreamed big dreams about building restaurant chains and, in some cases, even of setting standards that would influence public tates.

Indeed, this book itself is a pacesetter. The only problem. you'll find here is that you won't want to put it aside until you've finished reading it.

COPYRIGHT 1991 Reproduced with permission of the copyright holder. Further reproduction or distribution is prohibited without permission. 
COPYRIGHT 2008 Gale, Cengage Learning

This is obviously not a comprehensive survey of old places in Phoenix (and Tempe and Scottsdale).  This is what I could find during a mere weekend stay.  Like all pages on this site, hopefully it will grow.  Phoenix, Tempe & Scottsdale - nice cities!  Sure is easy to get around (beats the heck out of Eastern Cities!).  While the pickin's are a bit slim for true "Time Machines" by my definition, I did find a few gems (including what may be the best time machine I've found so far!).  Feel free to send me suggestions for my next visit (hopefully not like my last nine year hiatus).

DURANT'S Restaurant, 2611 N Central Ave., Phoenix( since 1950 )

El Chorro Lodge, 5550 E Lincoln Dr 
Paradise Valley

Grady Gammage Memorial Auditorium, Arizona State University Tempe Campus, 1200 S Forest Ave.

Mac Alpines Soda Fountain, 2303 N 7th St, Phoenix, Arizona 602 262-5545 (since 1928) 

Monti's La Casa Vieja, 100 S Mill Ave. Tempe(since 1954)

The Stockyards Restaurant & 1889 Saloon, 5009 E Washington, Phoenix (since 1954)

Trader Vic's, 6850 E Main St. Scottsdale

Hotel Valley Ho, 6902 E 1st St # 200, Scottsdale  

Well as I said, the pickin's are slim on time machines in Phoenix but this place may be the most perfect time machine of them all (in my limited travels at least).  This is exactly how I would imagine someone would have been treated at a upscale Hollywood restaurant in the 50's. Not only is the ambiance and interior design perfect, but the food is wonderful and above all the true art of service is practiced here. While Musso and Frank's may have an edge on history, this place is the whole package.  Not inexpensive, but fine dining never is and careful ordering won't break the bank.  Wonderful fresh bread served with an addictive topping.  This is an absolute "must see" in Phoenix. Central Avenue is currently completely chopped up with construction, so avoid as much of it as possible.  Another great quirk of this place is that you enter in the back through a very busy kitchen with all the staff greeting you in any event. If you're on a budget, at least stop in for a drink. It would be insane for Phoenix to ever let this place go and since the place was packed when I went, there seems no danger of this happening!

I had breakfast here. Not inexpensive but good for a splurge. This is the kind of old fashion place that locals go to for generations for nostalgia reasons. In a very beautiful area sandwiched between two mountains. Lot's of Western history here, the place started out as a girl's school in 1934.  The stars here during breakfast are their fresh baked sort of unraveled  cinnamon rolls and other pastries that come with the meal. Fairly remodeled but still with an old feel, especially the bar area. Very good service. I won't get into why "El Chorro" has a rather ironic connotation in Mexican slang. One of Frank Lloyd Wright's last designs. Built in 1964. I guess I'll pretend that I know something about architecture and be judgmental here.  If Wright's Taliesin West is the equivalent in creativity to Paul McCartney's "Eleanor Rigby", then this building parallel's "Live and Let Die" (a nice song) - at least the exterior. Few geniuses retain the same level of creativity to the end. Just compare Akira Kurosawa's "Dersu Uzala" and his film "Dreams", Albert Einstein's "Theory of Relativity" and his "Cosmological Constant", Jerry Springer on his original show and on "America's Got Talent".

This is another standout in the time machine field in Phoenix. Pure nostalgia. Similar to the St. Francis Fountain & Candy Store in San Francisco (although the St. Francis is in a little more original condition).  Every kind of soda fountain drink you can imagine, Egg Creams, Phosphates.  Even the Coca Cola here somehow tastes better. Milkshakes made the only true way there is.  Thank heavens this place has survived. A great place to take kids to teach them about the "good old days".  A very dedicated and friendly staff.  Highly recommended.

Incredibly historic restaurant in Tempe which apparently may be endangered by development. Hard to believe the city would consider changing this place in any way even for a minute. Very old, classic Western feel. Good food.  Tempe's always a fun place to visit, although the city did not seem as clean as I remembered it years ago. The restaurant is housed in an 1871 adobe hacienda. Long term Congressman Carl Hayden was born in this adobe.

Very nice bar with an old Western saloon back bar similar to the one's in Virginia City.  If I understood the bartender correctly I believe he said the back bar was hand carved on site when the place was opened rather than being an antique one brought in from elsewhere.  Could have fooled me.  The original restaurant the bar was attached to burnt down and was rebuilt, but apparently the bar survived.  Lot's of great old murals that have only been slightly touched up in a recent remodel.  Very friendly bartender who was rightly proud of his place. I didn't get to eat in the restaurant, but the reconstructed one still has a nice old feel.

Trader Vic's has returned to Scottsdale, and this one is very nice!  Unlike the new Trader Vic's in Las Vegas, this one is closer to the Tiki origins of the company. Very hip, very mid-century modern just like its Valley Ho Hotel location. Still has the classic Trader Vic's libations.  I'm not sure what the official label is for the style of music they play in the background is (sort of a cross between new age and classic lounge - I tend to call it Buddha bar music since that's the first place I've heard this style).  While I would prefer old school lounge, this music is also very relaxing.  I think they have once again struck a nice compromise between old school tiki and modern hip.  Incidentally, you'll see I always include Tiki places on the site even if they are not old. I made the rules, so I can break them! This place alone merits a trip out to Scottsdale.  Get directions before coming. It's a little hard to find just by looking for the address.

This historic hotel has been wonderfully remodeled in an ultra hip mid-century modern style, much like the wonderful style of Shawn Hausman's Standard Hotels in Los Angeles. Having Trader Vic's on the premises (along with a very attractive hotel restaurant and lounge of their own) makes this a Modernism mecca and of course a must see (and stay!).  The hotel was first built in 1956, and has a Frank Lloyd Wright influence since it was originally designed by his student Edward L. Varnay.  I was totally in awe of the whole place.  What a great idea.  I couldn't afford staying here this visit but if the place ever shows up on Priceline.com ...I'm there!  
 

50 

One of the rare, privately owned hotels, privately owned hotels in London, Durrants has a particularly cosy bar with an original coal fire. Unless stated otherwise, prices are for a double room, including breakfast, in low season (some hotels stipulate two nights or half board at weekends). Note that some hotels close for a week or two in January or February.

SCOTLAND

1. Kinloch Lodge  
   Sleat, Isle of Skye. Foodies flock to Kinloch Lodge, home to Lady Claire Macdonald, one of Scotland’s best-known cooks. The style is pitch-perfect: walls hung with family oils and comfortably muted rooms. Cookery demonstrations are laid on too.
2. Knockinaam Lodge  
   Portpatrick, Dumfries and Galloway. Used by Churchill for secret wartime meetings with Eisenhower, this Victorian hunting lodge has a wonderfully secluded setting overlooking its own cove. It also has stylish but cosy rooms and a Michelin-rated restaurant.
3. Airds  
   Port Appin, Argyll. An old ferry inn on the shores of Loch Linnhe, where most of the comfortable rooms take advantage of the thrilling views. Thoughtful extras include wellies for guests to wear on muddy walks.
4. Ards House  
   Connel, Argyll. Margaret Kennedy is an incomparable hostess. She runs this b&b overlooking the Firth of Lorn with warmth, humour and easy-going professionalism; has decorated the pretty Victorian villa with flair; and serves gold-standard breakfasts with porridge and kippers.
5. Kilcamb Lodge  
   Strontian, Argyll .You can see deer, pine martens, even otters in the countryside surrounding this solid loch-side hotel. Stone-built in the 1700s, with Victorian additions, the interior is comfortingly traditional, and the pleasing bedrooms have triple-lined curtains to keep out the cold.
6. Monachyle Mhor  
   Balquhidder, Perthshire. From Rob Roy’s Loch Voil farmhouse, the hands-on Lewis family has created a contemporary version of the cosy hotel: a pair of slipper baths in one room; wood-burning stoves in others; and home-grown vegetables served in an airy restaurant.
7. Tomdoun  
   Invergarry, InvernesshireA wonderful time warp, where fishing trophies of Olympic proportions line the walls of the bar. Here, warmed by two fires, you can savour an impressive selection of single malts. As eccentric and familiar as a favourite maiden aunt.
8. Scarista House  
   Sgarasta Bheag, Isle of Harris. In contrast to its windswept location, a feeling of warmth infuses this converted Georgian manse. Public rooms have antique furniture and peat fires and dinner is by candlelight.

THE NORTH

9. Inn at Whitewell  
   Lancashire. The perfect retreat for a winter weekend. Book one of the seven bedrooms with its own peat fire and curl up, warm as toast, to admire the glorious Forest of Bowland view. The beds are exquisitely comfortable.
10. Abbey Inn  
    Byland, North Yorkshire. There can be few more romantic spots than the one occupied by this tiny remote inn, facing Byland Abbey’s starkly beautiful ruins. It has three carefully furnished bedrooms and an inviting bar and restaurant which show their Victorian roots.
11. Austwick Traddock 
    Austwick, North Yorkshire. Cross the threshold of this family-run Georgian hotel and you’ll be struck by a feeling of warmth. Not just from the log fires, but also from its comfortable mix of fine furniture and quirky touches.
12. Millgate House  
    Richmond, North Yorkshire. An Aladdin’s cave of antiques, pictures and eye-catching objects, this fine Regency town house is now a friendly b&b. It has three attractive bedrooms and an award-winning garden, and the breakfast should keep you going all day.
13. Sportsman’s Arms  
    Wath-in-Nidderdale, North Yorkshire. For Dales walkers, this rambling 17th-century inn makes an excellent base. Built of mellow sandstone and reached by a packhorse bridge, it has a traditional interior with a particularly charming dining room and an unstuffy ambience.
14. Star Inn  
    Harome, North Yorkshire. Against a rustic backdrop of 14th-century rafters and intriguing nooks, Andrew Pern serves superb, Michelin-starred food at his thatched pub and restaurant with country-chic rooms. A perfect blend of the laid-back and the sophisticated.
15. Yorke Arms  
    Ramsgill-in-Nidderdale, North Yorkshire. Set in glorious rolling countryside, this archetypal Dales inn has everything it should: flagstones, beams, wood-panelling and open fires, plus 12 refurbished bedrooms and a candlelit restaurant. Here, another Michelin-starred chef, Frances Atkins, demonstrates her daily changing menu.
16. The Cottage in the Wood  
    Braithwaite, Cumbria. Games of Scrabble are often played in front of the snug sitting room fire at this 17th-century inn. It’s in England’s only mountain forest and looks out to Skiddaw.
17. Pheasant Inn  
    Bassenthwaite Lake, Cumbria. There’s a timelessness about this ancient post house, particularly in the deliciously old-fashioned bar, with its panelling and oak settles, where 19th-century huntsman John Peel was a regular. Bedrooms have been sympathetically updated.
18. Rose and Crown  
    Romaldkirk, Co Durham. Traditional style and service are at the heart of this award-winning pub; from the dining room’s starched linen and gleaming silver to the fresh flowers, and small stack of books in each inviting bedroom.

CENTRAL

19. Shakespeare House  
    Grendon Underwood, Buckinghamshire. An Elizabethan coach house, supposedly used by Shakespeare as a stopover between Stratford and London. Restored with panache, it makes a luxurious b&b, where suppers are also provided in front of the dining room’s inglenook fire.
20. Kingham Plough  
    Kingham, Oxfordshire. On the village green in honey-stone Kingham, this Cotswold inn has kept its spirit despite a revamp. A fire glows in the rustic bar, and the seven bedrooms, split between pub and annexe, are decorated in country-cottage style.
21. The King’s Head Inn  
    Bledington, Oxfordshire. This 16th-century cider house makes an appealing inn. The all-wood bar, with high-backed settles and log fire, keeps a good selection of ales and is popular with guests and locals alike. Don’t ignore the excellent restaurant.
22. Buckland Manor  
    Buckland, Gloucestershire. You half expect to see Miss Marple taking tea in this mellow old manor, sitting sedately in its coomb next to a little church. Inside, you’ll find gracious, countrified bedrooms and a dining room where gentlemen must wear jacket and tie.
23. Horse and Groom  
    Upper Oddington, Gloucestershire. An intense fire warms the low-beamed bar and the eight bedrooms are simple but squeaky clean at this 16th-century inn. Start the day with a breakfast of bacon, Gloucester Old Spot sausages, mushrooms and free-range eggs.
24. The Malt House  
    Broad Campden, Gloucestershire. There are seven bedrooms, filled with knick-knacks and garden flowers, in this Cotswold b&b. The 400-year-old house, where malt for ale was stored, is run by Judi Wilkes, who serves home-grown rhubarb for her legendary breakfasts.
25. Wesley House  
    Winchcombe, Gloucestershire. The Methodist preacher John Wesley used to stay in this alluring 15th-century black and white timbered house. Bedrooms are small but sweet, and downstairs there’s a sitting room with an inglenook fireplace and a sunny dining room serving modern English food.
26. The Swan 
    Lavenham, Suffolk. A gem of a hotel. The medieval building – all oak beams and creaky floors – has a snug bar, filled with Second World War memorabilia, and a romantic, galleried dining room. Wrap-around comfort in bedrooms.
27. Hambleton Hall  
    Hambleton, Rutland. The spell cast by this late Victorian house comes partly from its setting on the edge of Rutland Water; the views are superb. It has all the ingredients of a luxury country house hotel with none of the gimmicks. Bliss.

THE SOUTH-WEST

28. Star Castle 
    St Mary’s, Isles of Scilly. An Elizabethan star-shaped castle converted to a delightful family-run hotel with beams, stone walls and a dungeon bar. If ramparts can be cosy, the Star Castle’s are, with snug single bedrooms in the guardhouses.
29. Old Rectory 
    St Juliot, Cornwall. Who could resist staying in the house where Thomas Hardy fell in love with Emma Gifford? Now a friendly b&b, it has a sunny guest sitting room overlooking the garden.
30. Bark House  
    Oakfordbridge, Devon. Return from a day on Exmoor to tea and home-made cake in the welcoming sitting room of this idyllic, wisteria-clad hideaway. Then, after a candlelit dinner, tuck up in one of the five comfortable bedrooms.
31. Blagdon Manor 
    Ashwater, Devon. The Moreys, owners of this rambling farmhouse in remote, gently rolling countryside, know how to make their guests feel at home. Bedrooms are warm and comfortable, and downstairs labradors laze by the fire.
32. Gidleigh Park  
    Chagford, Devon. The original classic country house hotel, complete with ticking clocks and Siamese cats, this luxurious Arts and Crafts house has been updated with lavish bedrooms and bathrooms and a two Michelin-star restaurant.
33. Bridge House 
    Beaminster, Dorset. There’s even a priest’s hole in this charming 13th-century former clergy house. With its inglenook fireplaces, oak beams and handsome bedrooms, it’s just the spot to for the weekend.
34. The Bath Priory  
    Bath. A gorgeous honey-stone house decorated in traditional English country house style, The Bath Priory cossets guests in its 27 enveloping bedrooms. Set in a four-acre landscaped garden, it has a Michelin-star restaurant and sitting rooms with a private-house feel.
35. Castle Inn  
    Castle Combe, Wiltshire. The Castle in picture-postcard Castle Combe has blossomed from a modest pub into a restaurant-led hotel with a reputation for simple but carefully cooked food. The beamed bedrooms are brimming with character.
36. Lord Poulett Arms  
    Hinton St George, Somerset. A gentle revamp has brought out the character in this unassuming village inn. There are four quirky bedrooms, while downstairs locals still gather in the rustic-style bar. Great food and great value.
37. George Hotel  
    Yarmouth, Isle of Wight. A panelled 17th-century hall sets the scene at this laid-back, attractive hotel. A fire blazes in the sitting room, and the finest of the bedrooms have splendid views of the Solent.

THE SOUTH-EAST

38. Durrants  
    London. One of London’s few remaining privately owned hotels, Durrants certainly looks the part. Its genteel welcome extends from the panelled entrance to the tiny, cosy bar, with its original cast-iron coal fire.
39. The Levin  
    London. A chic yet intimate Knightsbridge bolthole with the facilities of its big sister, The Capital, next door. An Art Deco-style lobby leads to small, soothing bedrooms, while the buzzing subterranean brasserie, Le Metro, is reminiscent of a modern Viennese tea room.
40. Sloane Club  
    London. Copper-bottomed comfort at this traditional, members’ only home-from-home. It provides a clubby bar, restaurant and comfortable, no-nonsense bedrooms. On the walls, cartoons gently mock a panoply of upper-crust eccentrics.
41. Crab and Lobster  
    Sidlesham, West Sussex. This 350-year-old pub overlooking picturesque Sidlesham Quay makes a congenial place for the weekend. Eat in the inviting dining room and sleep under the eaves; one room has a telescope for surveying the marshes.
42. Park House  
    Bepton, West Sussex. A country house hotel that feels like a family home. You can play tennis on a grass court or golf on a private course, walk on the Downs or just curl up with a book in the drawing room.
43. Old Railway Station  
    Petworth, West Sussex. What could be cosier than a night in an old-fashioned Pullman carriage? There are three parked in the sidings and two bedrooms in the clapboard station itself. Breakfast is served in the waiting room.
44. Griffin Inn  
    Fletching, East Sussex. The bar in this popular 400-year-old village inn is full of beams, horse brasses, swirling carpets and local characters. Enjoy a first-rate dinner, then clamber into a four poster in one of the homely bedrooms.
45. Stone House  
    Rushlake Green, East Sussex. A splendid Tudor manor with Georgian additions and the cherished home of the Dunn family for 500 years. Rooms furnished with heirlooms look out over grounds containing rose and walled gardens, a croquet lawn and woodland walks.